Mazda g6 distributor timing14.11.2020
So basically, my truck runs really shaky when I'm stopped such as at a stop sign or something. Then I give it a little bit more gas and it runs fine.
It ONLY starts on the second try, and on cold mornings maybe like the 6th try. Also it's getting less than 9 mpg. I changed my spark plugs hoping that was the issue, but it changed nothing.
My distributor doesn't look very old, and it's fairly clean.
How to Set the Timing on a Mazda 626
Same with plug wires, no bulging or cracking or anything like that. I'd guess fuel injection pressure regulator. Are your plugs somewhat dirty and maybe wet even though they're new? Youngfunk answered 5 years ago. They may be. Also a piece of porcelain may have fell in when I was changing them, because it also developed a noticeable and consistent tick after I changed the plugs.
It's just running so rough right now. How would I test the fuel injection pressure regulator? When my Bi manual transmission, 2-wheel drive had those symptoms, it was the ECM. Greasemonkey1 answered 3 years ago. I had the same issue with mine.
I spent many days trying to trace the issue. Did a compression test and leak down test and found no issues with the engine, checked for vacuum leaks and In the end it turned out to be the on board computer under the kick pad on the passenger side. I hit it with my fist and the problem went away. I suspect the computer will eventually shit the bed and I will have to replace it. For now its running fine, doesn't miss a beat.
I own a 90 b and have been fighting with all sorts of problems. I've gone into replacing the cam chain and counter balance chain and guides. Valve springs and seals and a host of other things to get better gas mileage.
So here's what I've found out. All the things I've read on everyone who owns these trucks has a love hate relationship with this truck.
I wonder. Has anyone bothered to check the float and sending unit in the tank? I've noticed that when I'm on empty and fill up again that I only can put in about ten gallons and I have a 14 gallon capacity. Have you had the timing checked? When I first bought my truck.Since the inception of the internal combustion engine, one constant has remained — all of them have a timing chain or timing belt.
Most higher-displacement engines have a timing chain as opposed to a timing belt. The chain is located in the front of the motor and is attached to a set of gears and pulleys that power multiple mechanical components, including the crankshaft and camshaft.
In order for your engine to fire, the timing chain must smoothly rotate around the gears without hesitation. Although the timing chain is made out of metal, it is subject to wear and tear and may break if not replaced as recommended by the manufacturer.
The timing chain is comprised of a series of links in the chain — similar to those found on a bicycle chain. The links move on the toothed sprockets which are located on the ends of the crankshaft and camshaft and are responsible for opening and closing valves in the cylinder head and moving pistons and connecting rods in the combustion chamber.
The timing chain can start to stretch and wear over time, which will cause the engine's timing to be inaccurate and produce a few warning signs. Listed below are 5 of the symptoms of a worn out timing chain. If you notice any of these warning signs, it's advised you contact a local mechanic as soon as possible to diagnose the exact cause and make appropriate repairs as needed.
There are two ways to achieve valve timing in a combustion engine. The first is the two-gear method, which includes the crankshaft to camshaft gear direct connection. This is the method used in most types of heavy equipment and big trucks.
The timing chain method is more common with consumer vehicles and high-performance engines. Over a period of time, the timing chain can stretch, which can cause the chain to skip a gear on the cam or crankshaft. The engine may also run poorly and lack accelerating power. If this situation occurs, it's likely the timing chain is damaged and needs to be replaced as soon as possible.
If the timing chain breaks, the loose metal rolling around inside the motor can lead to serious engine damage.
Symptoms of a Bad or Failing Timing Chain
It's recommended by all automotive manufacturers to change the engine oil and filter every 3, to 5, miles. Over time, oil begins to separate as it heats up and is exposed to natural solvents found in gasoline. If the timing chain begins to wear out, small metal pieces can break off the chain and find their way into the oil pan. When you have your oil changed, and the mechanic tells you there were small pieces of metal inside the oil as it drained or in the filter, it's a good indication that your timing chain is beginning to fail.
Metal shavings are also commonly seen when there is extensive wear of cylinder head valves, keepers, retainers and other cylinder head hardware. A broken timing chain will cause an engine to not start or fail while driving. If it breaks or jumps while driving, the pistons will be damaged from contact with the valves. The valves themselves will bend and potentially ruin the engine.Our Address. Kings Mills, OH The ol thing quit running completely after about a month.
We replaced the distributor original was rusted up and screws broke off in italong with the distributor was the crank position sensor, we also had the ECM rebuilt and we tested the main relay works fine. We have also replaced or tested all the other sensors and still no go. So then we tested every ground wire and checked all the other wires. It just has no spark and no injector pulse. Any info would be great Thanks. I can offer three solutions to you.
He said it looked fine, there was no corrosion and nothing looked out of the ordenarry. The pickup would not restart unless it sat for 1 day. Then it would fire right back up it would run perfect and then do the same thing. Thanks for your help. You already went down a similar road I was going to suggest. Instead of farting around with cranky 22 year-old electronics, you could try converting the engine to a slightly earlier carburetted version. If you have the Mitsubishi 2.
Trying to convert the Mazda 2. I think the MPV van was the only other vehicle it was used in. I think there would be a lot of work involved with that. The Bi 2. You will thoroughly enjoy the wonderful low — midrange torque of the 2.
The extent of my work on the F2 2. I toss in a Kia Sportage 2. Have you checked the camshaft timing? Have you made sure your distributor is clocked correctly? Keep in mind, your problem may not be completely solved with the ECU. Fuel filters on these pickups are VERY sensitive to dirt and will cause major running problems once they start to clog up. Another common area of a huge vacuum leak is that big black box on the back of the intake pipe that is the intake muffler.Dec 13, 06 Update Holley Page changed to new layout!
One of the big problems people have with their Mazda Truck is timing. Many people will buy a truck that someone has fooled with before and since a lot of times they have never owned a mazda before they can't get it timed right or they decide to change the belt and can't get it right again. This is a real quick procedure to check your timing and can also be used to pinpoint other problems in the engine with out a bunch of instruments and gauges.
Ok, first off this article is based off of a Mazda B, this procedure should be universal with all distributor vehicles but timing marks and things like that will vary slightly between different truck models.
You will need to remove the upper timing cover so you can see the cam sprocket. It will come off with 4 10mm bolts, 2 on top 2 on the bottom.
My engine is fairly stripped of accessories so this takes me about 47 seconds but you may have to work around emission ducting to the exhaust and stuff like that. This is what you should have now on the B, don't worry what number is at the pointer at the moment as you now need to turn number one piston up to top dead center.
Before trying to turn the engine make sure that the tranny is in neutral, otherwise the engine won't turn and you risk stretching the timing belt.No Start, No Spark, But Engine Cranks? Here's How I Fixed The Issue On My Mazda B2000 Truck!
Put the wrench on the crank bolt and turn it clockwise until the mark on the harmonic balancer crank pulley lines up with the TDC mark on the lower timing cover. Now look at the cam sprocket the dowl in the cam should be in the hole for number 1.
If the arrow for number 1 A is not lined up with the arrow above the sprocket turn it over 1 A more time to TDC. If you don't lash in the timing belt will throw the entire thing off and you may think its wrong when it is actually timed right.
At this time your cam sprocket should look precisely like the picture above and your crank pulley like the picture below Now to double check and make sure that number 1 piston is at TDC. To do this you will need to remove 1 spark plug and put something like a skrewdriver or a dowl rod in there, it should not go in very far before it stops. If it doesn't go in very far turn the crank pully a little bit, the skrewdriver should move. If you put the skrewdriver in there and it drops all the way down to the handle then 1 piston is in the wrong place, you will need to loosen the timing belt and rotate the pully around 1 time until the mark lines up again.
Now the skrewdriver should only go in a few inches before stopping. Note: if useing a skrewdriver be careful, it is possable to scratch the top of the piston or damage the cylinder head. It is recommended you use something that can't scratch metal, also be careful that you don't drop whatever it is your using into the cylinder.
If the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is lined up, 1 piston at TDC, and the cam is installed properly then 1 cylinder should be on its compression stroke.
To double check this turn the engine over by hand with your tumb over 1 spark plug hole, as the timing mark reaches TDC AND 1 A on the cam sprocket lines up you should feel pressure push your thumb off the hole. Also if you remove the valve cover both valves on 1 should be fully closed and the springs uncompressed.
Now to check the distributor. It should look something like the picture below, where each wire goes depends on the firing order of your engine. On the B it is with 1 being the cyliner at the front of the truck. So just take the 2 screws off for the distributor cap to look where the rotor button is. Here is the rotor button: The contact on the rotor button by the 1 in picture above should be located where number one spark plug wire would be on the distributor.
If that is where it is at it should be installed properly if it is some place else take the distributor out and line up the dimple on the gear with the mark on the distributor shaft and put it back in.The Mazda was a mid-size sedan offered by Mazda from to The car's ignition timing determined when a spark would occur in the internal combustion engine to start the car. The ignition timing can be thrown off by normal everyday driving.
You should routinely check and correct the ignition timing on your Mazda to keep up with the maintenance of your car. The ignition timing for the Mazda is in a range from 6 to 18 degrees, and can be adjusted with a few tools and mechanical skills.
Turn your car on in an area with space to work on the engine. Exit the car and chock the wheels of your car with wheel chocks for safety purposes. Put the transmission in neutral, if you have an automatic transmission or drive if you have a manual transmission, and firmly engage the emergency brake. Bring the engine to an idle speed of to rpm if you have an automatic transmission, or to if you have an automatic transmission. Exit your Mazda with the emergency brake firmly engaged and open the hood to gain access to your engine.
Engage the fast idle speed control located by the idle air control valve of your engine, so that you engine will maintain its warm idle speed. Attach the red clip of the timing light to the positive terminal first, and the black clip of the timing light to the negative terminal second. Connect the timing light clamps to the number 1 spark plug wire connected to the engine's cylinder head. Shine the actual timing light on the yellow mark located on the crankshaft pulley. Observe the timing mark on the pulley and compare the timing to the degree tab located on the front of the engine.
You can discontinue all operations if you are satisfied with the current ignition time, or you can proceed to the next step. Loosen the distributor lock-down bolt with your wrench and disconnect the distributor vacuum hose from the distributor housing. Plug the distributor vacuum hose into the electronic spark computer and ground the carburetor switch with jumper cables.
Use your hand to rotate the distributor vacuum hose until the timing mark on the pulley falls drifts to 6 to 18 degrees. Unplug the distributor vacuum hose from the electronic spark computer and connect it into the distributor housing.I am reassembling a repaired engine. I need to find out how to properly synchronize the balance shaft assembly as it is being installed under the crankshaft. I also need the torque spec's for the attaching bolts.
Rotate the crank until the number 1 cylinder is at top dead center. Make sure to replace the adjustment shims exactly as they came out, on the seat faces of the balance shaft assembly.
Line up the marks on the end of the shafts to the marks on the housing. This puts the balance shafts in TDC position.
Slowly lower the unit onto the engine block and install the bolts. Then tighten the bolts, in an x pattern to 18 lb-ft, followed by a final torque of 37 lb-ft. Finally, rotate the crank to ensure there are no problems with the gears meshing. You may refer to a factory service manual for detailed instructions and illustrations of the installation. Q: Need to find out how to set timing on balance shaft assembly.
Richard Zeppetini Automotive Mechanic. Thank Richard. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful? The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details. Related Questions.
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By continuing to use mazda. Compression ratio, fuel economy and torque vary according to market, carline and transmission. Increasing the compression ratio considerably improves thermal efficiency.
The compression ratio of recent gas engines is generally around to However, one of the reasons preventing the spread of high compression ratio gas engines is the large torque drop due to knocking Fig. Knocking is abnormal combustion in which the air-fuel mixture ignites prematurely due to exposure to high temperature and pressure, creating an unwanted high-frequency noise.
When the compression ratio is increased, the temperature at compression top dead center TDC also rises, increasing the probability of knocking. In order to lower the temperature at compression TDC, reducing the amount of hot exhaust gas remaining inside the combustion chamber is effective. For example, with a compression ratio ofa residual gas temperature of deg.
C, and an intake air temperature of 25 deg. C, and the temperature at compression TDC is calculated to increase by roughly deg. Therefore, it can be easily inferred that the amount of residual gas has an major impact on knocking.
These calculations are summarized in Fig. One option to significantly reduce residual gas is the adoption of a exhaust system. As shown in Fig. As a result, exhaust gas which has just moved out of the cylinder is forced back inside the combustion chamber, increasing the amount of hot residual gas. With a short exhaust manifold, the high pressure wave arrives at the next cylinder within a short amount of time, causing this adverse effect to continue from low to high engine speeds.
However, with a long exhaust system, since it takes time for the high pressure wave to reach the next cylinder, the effect mentioned is limited to extra-low engine speeds, making the reduction of residual gas at almost all engine speeds possible.
In addition, a pipe length of over mm was necessary to elevate actual-use torque, but space was saved by adopting a loop shape. Exhaust gas temperature can be increased by delaying the ignition timing, but too much retardation causes unstable combustion.
This was made possible by adopting a piston cavity Fig. Furthermore, the piston cavity resolved the issue of the initial flame coming in contact with the piston head and generating a cooling loss. To improve resistance to knocking, shortening of combustion duration was also attempted. The faster the combustion, the shorter amount of time the unburned air-fuel mixture is exposed to high temperatures, allowing for normal combustion to conclude before knocking occurs.
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